Sunday, May 10, 2009

Pizzeria Pulcinella

Recently had a fun night at Pizzeria Pulcinella with a large party to celebrate a birthday. Pizza Pulcinella is located in the (well renovated) old Lakeside Tavern, which stands alone with its upside-down sign between Seattle and Renton.

The space was lovely on this particular gloomy day, and the menu had lots of interesting vegetarian pizza choices (most of which require ordering a menu item without its included meat), including pizzas with broccoli, arugula, pesto, and eggplant. Unfortunately, these guys are on the botched "Napoli style wood fired" pizza bandwagon that is messing up pizza all over this town.

Arugula, Parmesan and prosciutto, half without prosciutto

I love the idea of Neapolitan pizza. What I don't understand is how this style is so consistently bastardized into a soggy, dissolving, wet mess, and continues to be praised praised praised.

Broccoli Pizza, sans sausage

It could be that I am just WRONG about what it is supposed to be like. To me, a Neapolitan pizza should be very thin, very quickly cooked, and with a crust that is crisp hot. Instead, all Napoli pizza I've had in Seattle (which is this place and Tutta Bella) seems to be limp and sogged out. Are the ovens not hot enough? Do the San Marzano tomatoes need to be better drained? Is the dough too thick? Am I just ignorant?

Plus, the "I'm just gonna put on a sprinkle of toppings, because it's authentico!" idea is less impressive on a subpar crust.

The pesto pizza, without the i'm-amazing-cuz-i-come-from-italy San Marzano tomatoes, was quite a bit better in texture

Aside from the situation with the pizza, (which I did eat about a dozen slices of despite all this whining) the place was all kinds of good. The ambiance is pleasant, light and warm, especially on this rainy evening, and the waitress was outstandingly friendly and accommodating (even for our large party), without being cloying.

I don't mean to single these guys out. Their pizza is just as good as the other, very popular, praised as "authentic" Neapolitan pizzerias around town. But I just don't get it. Is everybody else being lulled along by the hype of a trend? Am I wrong about what it is supposed to be like? Am I just a pizza asshole?
Insalata Mista. That isn't my milk.

Pizzeria Pulcinella
(206) 772-6861

South Seattle

10003 Rainier Ave S
Seattle, WA 98178

Pizzeria Pulcinella on Urbanspoon

1 comment:

Ben said...

I think you have legitimate concerns about this style of pizza. I would like to add that in my opinion, they could have been a bit more liberal with the toppings. When one pays nearly $13.00 for a small single serving pizza, one would expect a few more goodies on each soggy slice. At least I do...

BTW,the Peroni on tap was excellent.